Cross the street and everything changes. Buenos Aires, more than most cities of a comparable size, gives you the feeling of a patchwork quilt city ? a city which is defined by its neighborhoods (barrios).

If you ask a porte?o, one of Buenos Aires residents, where he?s from, he won?t say Buenos Aires ? he?ll give you his neighborhood?s name. And if you ask him which barrio is the best, any self-respecting porte?o will tell you that his barrio is.

It?s best to take this advice lightly and sample a handful.

The barrios commonly visited by tourists and travelers include, in descending order of popularity:

1) Recoleta. Buenos Aires? equivalent of New York?s Upper East Side or London?s Knightsbridge. Fancy, ornate and posh. A quick list of things to see and do include the cemetery, the lobbies of the five star hotels (of which the Alvear is the most ostentatious), and Avenida Santa Fe?s shopping.

2) Palermo. Known for its parks as well as its restaurants, bars and colorful little shops. When Palermo is mentioned as the best place in Buenos Aires to go out, it?s probably Palermo Viejo and Palermo Hollywood (two micro-barrios) that are being referred to. They?re BA?s hippest places to be seen at the moment, where you can take part in the city?s crazy nightlife that doesn?t even begin to slow down until the sun?s already risen. (A proper Buenos Aires night out should finish with breakfast.)

3) Downtown (Microcentro). This is where Buenos Aires? suits go on a business day. It?s the center of the nation?s economy, a place of high rise office buildings, narrow crowded streets, and exhaust fumes. For the tourist without business concerns, it?s almost entirely devoid of interest (though you wouldn?t know it from the large numbers who flock there). Towards San Telmo, in the older part of the downtown area, there are sites to be seen, however: the Plaza de Mayo, the Casada Rosada (the ?Pink House?, Buenos Aires? equivalent to the White House) and the Manzana de las Luces are all worth a visit.

4) San Telmo. A barrio of cobblestone streets, antique stores, and colonial area mansions. In the early days of Buenos Aires, the Spanish and upper-crust criollos established themselves in this area and built grandiose buildings with interior patios. When those moneyed citizens fled San Telmo and took off for Recoleta to escape cholera epidemics in the late 19th century, the mansions were abandoned to squatters and San Telmo was transformed into the center of Buenos Aires bohemia. Recently, interest from visitors, foreign and Argentine alike, has brought gentrification to the barrio. This means security, once a sore spot, has improved, but prices have shot up as well.

5) One place where it is still best to watch your wallet though is La Boca. As a matter of fact, it?s really only recommendable to visit the tourist area of El Caminito where the Argentine Federal Police have been stationed to watch your back. This little street, with its bright colored houses, has very nearly been touristed to death. Still, no visit to Buenos Aires is complete without a visit to the fabled street of garish colors. On game days, the soccer stadium in La Boca is another major reason to visit the barrio.

When you come to Buenos Aires, though, do yourself a favor and try to break out of the established tourist routines, if only for a little while. Just a few recommendations of the lesser visited barrios, where your fellow-citizens and fellow travelers are less likely to be tagging along with you, include:

Las Ca?itas in Belgrano. Restaurants, restaurants, and restaurants galore (a stone’s throw from Palermo).

Almagro. What Sant Telmo used to be, Almagro still is: Bohemian. Check newspaper listings for tango concerts, independent theatre and other events in the area. Meanwhile, the cafe Las Violetas, on the corner of Rivadavia Avenue and Medrano street, is amongst the most beautifully restored historic cafes in the city.

Mataderos, an outlying barrio where the city?s butchers still ply their trade, is also a find, not so much for the barrio itself but for the Sunday afternoon markets which take place in the barrio?s main square. This market is not to be confused with the markets in San Telmo or Recoleta. It?s bigger, better, with a greater variety of authentic hand-craft goods ? leather and silver amongst others. In the spring and summer months, gauchos from the nearby countryside perform rodeo displays at the market as well.

While a trip to Dublin will leave you spoilt for choice when it comes to pubs, finding a traditional Irish pub in Dublin’s city centre is a bit more difficult. One of the most commonly asked questions by those who are planning a trip to Dublin is where can I find a traditional Irish pub that might also serve food and have live traditional Irish music performances. Here are some of the best options, some are well known traditional Irish pubs in Dublin and others are only really known to the locals.

Grogan’s - 15 South William St

This pub is still a great secret amongst local Dubliners and a place where you would rarely find a tourist. It is located only a few minutes walk from Grafton St and to this day it remains one of the best traditional Irish pubs in Dublin. Grogan’s certainly isn’t fancy nor is it spacious but it has a casual and relaxed atmosphere where you will find people having lively conversations while enjoying a drink. Grogan’s traditional Irish pub feel even carries over to its beer. The bar staff still take pride in pouring a good pint and here is one place where you will definitely find some of the best Guinness in Dublin.

Davy Byrnes – Duke St

Situated in the busy Grafton street area this Dublin pub is easy to find. Recent renovations have taken away some of Davy Byrnes traditional Irish pub charm, but not all of it. It is one of the most famous pubs in Dublin, primarily due to one of its most famous patrons, James Joyce. Joyce was a regular visitor to the pub and friendly with the original owner, Davy Byrnes. The pub was made famous by its mention in James Joyce’s book, Ulysses. So though Davy Byrnes has lost some of its old charm is it still a comfortable and popular traditional Irish pub in Dublin. In fact it is one of the most famous pubs in Dublin and the most well known of Dublin’s literary pubs. Another great quality about this Dublin pub is its food. Here you will find some of the best pub seafood in the city centre. Davy Byrnes is also host to regular live music performances, both modern and traditional Irish.

Peter’s Pub – on the corner of Johnson’s Place, at the end of South William Street.

This is another great local secret. Peter’s Pub has remained one of the most traditional Irish pubs in Dublin. It has not been tempted to revamp itself to fit in with all the sleek and trendy modern pubs surrounding it. This is definitely an authentic Dublin pub. It is only a short walk from Grafton St, at the upper end near the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre. Peter’s Pub is very small and cosy, creating a relaxed friendly atmosphere, perfect for a pint and a chat.

The Long Stone – Townsend St.

This is a great traditional Irish pub and one of the best overall pubs in Dublin. Inside you will find traditional surroundings with a twist. There is usually a good buzz in the pub with a friendly crowd. They serve tasty food and even include vegetarian options, which though not difficult to find in Dublin eateries, it is difficult to find on pub food menus. They have a wide selection of beers and have a late licence meaning you can enjoy yourself until 2:30am when the bar staff flick the lights announcing last orders. This is definitely a traditional Irish pub in Dublin that visitors will want to check out.

The Brazen Head – Bridge St, just of Merchants Quay.

In some ways this is perhaps the most traditional Irish pub in Dublin and it certainly deserves some attention. The Brazen Head is thought to be the oldest pub in Dublin and there has been a pub of some kind at the same location since the 12th century. The pubs d’cor has been left very traditional and many of the original features have been preserved. Nearly every night the Brazen Head offers some kind of live music and it has been the host for some of Ireland’s most famous traditional musicians including The Dubliners, and Cristy Moore. The Brazen Head is one of the most popular traditional Irish pubs in Dublin amongst tourists; so you will find a friendly place in which to have a drink, enjoy some Irish culture and meat a variety of people.

Johnnie Fox’s Pub – Glencullen, Co. Dublin

This may be a little out of the way for the average visitor to Dublin and definitely requires a taxi to and from, adding to your expenses, but if you are willing to make the trek you won’t be disappointed. Johnnie Fox’s is not only an authentic traditional Irish pub (established in 1798), it is the highest pub in Ireland, serves excellent food and provides performances of traditional Irish music.

(more…)

The earliest forms of leisure tourism can be traced as far back as the Babylonian and Egyptian empires. A museum of ?historic antiquities? was open to the public in the sixth century BC in Babylon, while the Egyptians held many religious festivals attracting not only the devout, but many who came to see the famous buildings and works of art in the cities. The local towns accommodated tourists by providing services such as: vendors of food and drink, guides, hawkers of souvenirs, touts and prostitutes.

From around the same date, Greek tourists travelled to visit the sites of healing gods. Because the independent city-states of ancient Greece had no central authority to order the construction of roads, most of these tourists travelled by water, hence seaports prospered.

The lands of the Mediterranean Sea produced a remarkable evolution in travel. People travel for trade, commerce, religious purposes, festivals, medical treatment, or education developed at an early date.

Guidebooks became available as early as the fourth century BC, covering a vast area of destinations, i.e. Athens, Sparta and Troy. Pausanias, a Greek travel writer, produced a noted ?description of Greece? between AD 160 and 180, which, in its critical evaluation of facilities and destinations, acted as a model for later writers. Advertisements, in the form of signs directing visitors to wayside inns, are also known from this period. However, under Romans rule is where international travel became first important. With no foreign borders between England and Syria, and with the seas safe from piracy due to the Roman patrols, conditions favouring travel had arrived. Roman coinage was acceptable everywhere, and Latin was the common language. Romans travelled to Sicily, Greece, Rhodes, and Troy, Egypt and from the third century AD, to the Holy Land.

Domestic tourism also flourished within the Roman Empire. Second homes were built by the wealthy within easy travelling distance of Rome, occupied particularly during the springtime social season. Naples attracted the retired and the intellectuals.

Before the sixteenth century, those who sought to travel had three modes in which to do so. They could walk, ride a horse or they could be carried, either on a little or on a carrier?s wagon. The development of the sprung coach was a huge advance for those who regularly travelled, and by the mid 1600?s, coaches were operating regularly in Britain. In the eighteenth century the introduction of turnpike roads, which provided improved surfaces for which tolls would be charged. The later introduction of the metal, leaf spring suspension also added to comfort.

Travel also requires accommodation, and at that time, it was basic. To accommodate the new demand for travel inns was provided. They provided fresh horses, and lodgings were available for rent to visitors when they arrived at their destination.

From the early seventeenth century, a new form of tourism developed as a direct outcome of the freedom and quest for learning heralded by the Renaissance. Young men who wanted positions at court were encouraged to travel to the Continent to finish their education. Others soon adopted this practice in the upper echelons of society, and it soon became customary for the education of a gentleman to be completed by a ?Grand tour? of major cultural centres of Europe, accompanied by a tutor and often-lasting three years or more. The appeal soon became social, and leisure seeking young men travelled, predominantly to France and Italy, to enjoy the rival cultures and social life of cities such as Paris, Venice, or Florence. By the end of the eighteenth century, the custom had become institutionalised for the gentry.

Passports have their origins in the medieval testimonial. A letter from an ecclesiastical superior given to a pilgrim to avoid the latter?s possible arrest on charges of vagrancy. Later, papers of authority to travel were more widely issued by the state, particularly during periods of warfare with neighbouring European countries.

Spas were already well established during the time of the Roman Empire, but their popularity, based on the supposed medical benefits of the waters, lapsed in the subsequent centuries. Renewed interest in the therapeutic qualities of mineral waters has been ascribed to the influence of the Renaissance in Britain, and elsewhere in Europe.

The Hunter Valley stretches from the Goulburn River and Wollemi National Park in the south to the Barrington Tops National Park in the north. Most of the Hunter Valley’s many vineyards are located in the Lower Hunter Valley, with the centre of grape and wine production being Pokolbin, located north west of the town of Cessnock. Although some wineries specialise in particular wines, Chardonnay, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Verdelho can be found at most vineyards. The best vintage years for both red and white wines in the Hunter Valley include 1979, 1983, 1996 and 1999, although several other good years were seen during both the 1980s and 1990s. Great wine is accompanied by great food in many restaurants, including a selection of fresh local grown vegetables, locally bred game, delicious seafood from Port Stephens, bread and pastries, cheeses and chocolates.

The Upper Hunter Valley also has several vineyards, and is also home to a thriving horse breeding and racing industry. The centre for thoroughbred horse breeding in the Upper Hunter Valley is the town of Scone, although horse breeding is popular throughout the area. Scone has a range of quality accommodation options and several excellent restaurants, although the main attraction for many is probably the race course. Numerous race meetings are held throughout the year, so chances are good of being able to catch a race when you visit.

Prior to European settlement, the Hunter Valley was inhabited by the Darkinjung people for many thousands of years. The area was cleared for farming during the 1820s and grape vines have been grown there since the mid 1850s, making it the oldest wine region in Australia. In the 1900s coal was discovered in the area, giving the Hunter Valley a new lease of life. The mines eventually closed down to be replaced by wineries and a thriving tourism industry, with over 4500 acres of the Hunter Valley now covered with vines. The region today is a veritable mecca of holiday resorts and activities suitable for families, couples, corporations and international tourists.

The Hunter Valley’s excellent range of wineries, shops, restaurants and other attractions make it the most visited wine region in Australia today. Home to several leading Australian wineries including Lindemans, McWilliams, Wyndham Estate and Tyrell’s, the Hunter Valley is also home to many smaller boutique wineries. In total, the Hunter Valley is now home to over 80 wineries, most of which offer celler door wine tastings and many of which also have quality restaurants. Hunter Valley grape growers do not specialise in any one particular grape variety or wine style. While classic varieties such as Chardonnay, Shiraz and Semillon are popular, newer styles like Verdelho and Chambourcin are also commonly found.

Excellent wine and food aren’t the only attractions offered by the Hunter Valley. Outdoor activities are available to suit every taste, ranging from horse riding and golf to hot air ballooning and sky diving, all set amongst wonderfully picturesque landscapes. The Hunter Valley is also a great location in which to enjoy music and entertainment during one of its many festivals. During October you can enjoy music and Australian wine with the Opera in the Vineyards and Jazz in the Vines music festivals. Many fascinating buildings can be found in the Hunter Valley, along with several galleries and museums. Speciality shops and small businesses abound, with galleries displaying antiques, crafts, glassware, jewellery, paintings, sculptures and wrought iron.

The many small towns nestled around the Lower Hunter all offer the visitor something unique. The rural community of Wollombi still lives in the 1930’s, the time in which it was settled. You can wander along taking in the historic atmosphere, go horse riding, or even explore the nearby bushland. Branxton and Greta are popular for their markets and festivals. Cessnock has a range of accommodation as well as modern shopping areas, set amongst its heritage buildings and craft shops. Kurri Kurri hosts several heritage country pubs as well as a mining museum. It is also popular for a mixture of sports including bowls, golf, squash and tennis. For wonderful views of the Brokenback Range head to Broke, or for museums and antique shops go to the old river port of Morpeth.

The ideal location for relaxing time out, Port Douglas is an easy-going tropical paradise with a small friendly village atmosphere and sophisticated creature comforts. The warm reef waters of the Coral Sea, the glorious palm fringed sands of Port Douglas Four Mile Beach, and the crystal clear creeks of Mossman Gorge are the place to refresh, restore and revitalise both body and mind. Seductive, balmy days slip seamlessly into tropical evenings under a canopy of clear starry skies. The sights, sounds and tastes of the tropical environment are a feast for the senses; the stunning array of nature and wildlife is awe-inspiring.

The Port Douglas region has become increasingly aware of the value and uniqueness of its natural environment over the past decade. As a result, ecotourism products which focus on the area’s pristine World Heritage rainforests, marine environment and ecosystems are now a major component of the Port Douglas and Daintree tour industry. Ecotourism balances the requirements of tourism and conservation, and has been defined by Ecotourism Australia as ?ecologically sustainable tourism with a primary focus on experiencing natural areas that fosters environmental and cultural understanding, appreciation and conservation?.

Ecotourism in Port Douglas offers an authentic ecotourism experience. This includes interacting with the local population, learning meaningful information about the locations you visit, and leaving the lightest possible footprint on the environment as you depart. Port Douglas tour operators are firmly committed to sustainable tourism and are licensed and accredited to conduct operations in national parks and other sensitive protected areas. They have a high degree of local knowledge, employ local people, and support their local economy and community.

There are ample opportunities for outdoor activities in Port Douglas, ranging from walks and safaris through the breathtaking pristine Daintree and Cape Tribulation Rainforests, horse riding, river cruises and white water rafting to swimming, diving, snorkelling, fishing and sailing on the the reef and waterways. Tours are available across the Daintree to Cape Tribulation, and further afield to the Mareeba Wetlands, the Tropical Tablelands, Cairns and Kuranda. Other local attractions include various historical sites, weekend markets, world-class restaurants, nightlife, a fruit winery, indigenous cultural experiences, 4WD safari adventures, world class golf courses, spas, aerial tours by seaplane, helicopter & hot-air balloon, and outdoor cinema and theatre.

At 140 million years old, the Daintree National Park contains the oldest living rainforest on earth. The Park is divided into three main areas, Daintree, Cape Tribulation and Mossman Gorge. Daintree National Park lies between Mossman Gorge and the Daintree River, is known for its long stretch of lush tropical rainforest, and is home to unique bird life and crocodiles. Cape Tribulation is where tropical rainforest and coral reef meet in a scenic coastal setting north of the Daintree River. The area is home to glorious sandy beaches and mangroves environments abounding in wildlife viewing. Mossman Gorge is a steep-sided valley on the Mossman River containing lush tropical rainforest and crystal clear creeks. An excellent location for viewing birdlife and other wildlife. Guided walks visiting Aboriginal heritage sites are provided by members of the Kuku Yalanji Mossman Gorge Community.

Originally founded in 1876 as a service port for the North Queensland goldfields, Cairns is today the international gateway to North Queensland. With a population of 100,000, the Cairns region offers a healthy, relaxed lifestyle with the local economy based on tourism, agriculture, manufacturing, mining and fishing industries. The Cairns International Airport provides a first point of entry for both Australian and International travellers.

Cairns is surrounded to the north, west and south by magnificent rainforests, many of which are protected by World Heritage listings. To the east is Great Barrier Reef and the Coral Sea. The wealth of natural beauty in the Cairns region provides the perfect setting for a huge range of activities including swimming, snorkelling, diving, sailing, jet-skiing, white water rafting, bushwalking, fishing, hot air ballooning or simply enjoying the fantastic scenery on a drive out of town to Mossman Gorge, Port Douglas, Kuranda or the Nandroya Falls.

The Esplanade in the centre of Cairns, is where restaurants, cafes, markets, nightclubs, pubs and shopping arcades are located, and is also the departure point for most reef tours and island cruises. Accommodation is plentiful in Cairns, with the Esplanade and surrounding areas offering quality accommodation ranging from luxury apartments and five star hotels to caravan parks and camping areas.

Set in a lush tropical environment, the water-based activities available in Cairns are endless. Whether sailing the beautiful waters of the Great Barrier Reef and the islands, canoeing or jet-skiing on the bays and lakes, taking a casual cruise or a dynamic jet boat ride, there are adventure tours available for every taste. If fishing is your passion, Cairns is a brilliant destination at any time of the year. Offering excellent angling opportunities for all areas of fishing. Cairns is famous for its Black Marlin fishing and hosts fishing tournaments September to December. Barramundi and Mangrove Jack abound at Trinity Inlet, while freshwater fishing is available further inland on the Atherton Tablelands at Tinaroo Dam. Further afield, the Gulf Savannah and Cape York offer anglers an almost limitless variety of spectacular locations in which to enjoy the fishing experience of a lifetime.

The Rainforests of the Cairns region are another major attraction that simply should not be missed. Home to an amazing diversity of flora and fauna, waterfalls, rivers, lakes and national parks, the rainforests are magical environments containing 200 year old palms where everything seems larger, more colourful and healthier including trees, leaves and seed pods. The rainforests were World heritage listed in 1988 and cover almost one million hectares of lush tropical vegetation. The tropical wet season from January to March is a special time of regeneration and restoration in the rainforest. The rainforests have excellent bushwalking and 4WD tracks, and 4WD Nature Safaris are available. As most rainforest animals are nocturnal, a night excursion can provide the opportunity to view a rich variety of animal life including green tree frogs, pythons, tree climbing kangaroos, geckos and rare possums.

The Great Barrier Reef is located off the Cairns coast to the east in the Coral Sea, and consists of 344,000 square kilometres of warm, clear waters in which an amazing array of sea life abounds, from sea slugs to migrating whales to coral. The many wonders of the Great Barrier Reef can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, including snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking, sailing, or a plane or helicopter flight.

The Great Barrier Reef includes many magnificent locations for day tours and longer expeditions, including the Hinchinbrook Channel, Mission Beach, Palm Cove, Port Douglas, Cape Tribulation and Cooktown, and Green and Fitzroy Islands. Green Island is a tropical island paradise perfect for a day trip from Cairns where you can enjoy activities such as windsurfing, rainforest walks and snorkelling. The best reefs for snorkelling and diving are Arlington, Elford, Agincourt, Oyster, Michaelmas and Upolu Reefs.

About 180 kilometres south of Brisbane and 800 kilometres north of Sydney, the Byron Bay area is Australia’s eastern-most mainland coastal region. Byron Bay enjoys a mild sub-tropical climate, with summer temperatures averaging 25 to 30 degrees Celsius and average winter temperatures only slightly lower at 20 to 25 degrees Celsius. The area’s economy is based mainly on tourism and agriculture, with an estimated 1.7 million tourists visiting each year. Thriving small businesses focus on alternative, cultural and knowledge industries, and the area is home to a steadily growing population of writers, artists and filmmakers.

The town of Byron Bay is renowned for the rich diversity of its weekend markets, restaurants, shops and fashion outlets. The Byron Bay area including the hilly hinterland is also known as something of a mecca for alternative lifestylers who have enriched the local culture and economy with an enormous variety of small alternative food, art, craft, health and natural therapy industries. An area of spectacular natural beauty and glorious beaches, outdoor activities abound in Byron Bay, ranging from bushwalking and climbing in the nearby hills to surfing, diving, snorkelling, whale watching, gliding, hang-gliding, horse riding and bike riding.

The north coast of New South Wales is the traditional country of the Bunjalung people. Two sub-groups of the Bunjalung frequented the Byron Bay area, the Arakwal in the south and the Minjunbal in the north. Aboriginal people lived in and visited the Byron Bay area for over 20,000 years. They knew the area as Walgun (The Shoulder), a place of plenty with sheltered sandy beaches, abundant seafood, wildlife and rainforest fruits, and permanent clean spring water. Unfortunately, many coastal Aboriginal sites have been lost to sandmining and development, but the remaining sites provide strong evidence of a vibrant and versatile culture that thrived in an abundant natural environment. Middens, ceremonial Bora rings, burial sites and specially marked trees have all been recorded in the area. The surviving midden and camp site at Cape Byron’s Palm Valley is definitely the oldest of its type in the region at over 1,000 years old.

Cape Byron is one of Byron Bay’s main natural attractions, and is located just 3 km from the Byron Bay Post Office. Cape Byron has a well-deserved international reputation as one of the most beautiful locations in the world, boasting lush rainforest, rocky cliff faces, magnificent views of the Byron Bay hinterland and ocean, and excellent vantage points for watching whales and dolphins from the Cape Byron headland. At least two hours should be allowed for a comfortable walk around Cape Byron’s 5km walking trail. The trail passes through coastal heath, littoral rainforest, banksia forest and many beautiful vantage points. Cape Byron’s Aboriginal heritage lives on today, with members of the Arakwal clan, traditional custodians of the Byron Bay area, playing an active role in the preservation of traditional sites.