It is the end of an era in Thailand. Political changes occur rapidly in SE Asia. Nowhere is that more evident than inside the Land of Smiles. In the wake of the John Karr / JonBenet Ramsey fiasco, Thailand has tightened restrictions on Tourism Visas and stymied the lives of tens of thousands of travelers. Officials claim the two are not connected.

For many years now, backpackers have flocked to Thailand. It?s tropical climate, gentle citizens, inviting beaches and ease of travel beckon youthful exuberance. Over time, many of us have matured to suitcases and still less-stylish travelers followed suit.

During these Golden Years of Thai travel visitors form 39 countries could enter the Kingdom of Thailand for thirty days without obtaining a visa before their arrival. Those staying on longer would simply make a border run, cross out of the country and return, often within minutes. Whish! Stamp! Boom! They had another thirty days.

Currently details of the new regulations are as clear as mud in an unlit cave. It appears starting October 1, 2006, travelers such as myself will be able to make a maximum of two border runs. We receive thirty days on arrival. Then, we receive thirty days each for the two reentries. After that we may not enter Thailand again for ninety days. In other words, after ninety days in, we must leave for ninety days. Whish! Stamp! Stamp! Out!

The tourism industry will suffer! From taxi drivers and guest houses, to massage schools and laundry services, the impact will be felt. I imagine a Tuk Tuk driver will look up this January and think, ?Hey, where?d everybody go?? I like to believe the cumulative economic loss will be more than the Kingdom fathoms and policies will loosen again over time. I also still hang a Christmas stocking up for myself.

Alongside Thais, how are long-term travelers being affected by the changes? If you think the inconvenience to individuals is negligible, consider the following. Here are some examples.

Donald Wood ? UK
?My sister and her family were to spend February in Thailand with me. They have canceled their trip. Why? Because, I?ll be out for ninety days by then.?

Kelly Laidlaw ? USA
?I paid for a one month TEFL Course and two months ?volunteer? teacher training on Samui next year. That?s three months total. I lose days from each 30 day allotment, because I have to do my visa border runs on weekend (to not miss class). This is what I?m left with. I leap into Thailand the day before class starts and sprint for Samui. Then, I fly out the day after I finish teaching/graduate. Perhaps a prospective school can interview me in the Tuk Tuk on the way to the airport.?

Claude DeVosjoli ? France
?I had many plans for my six months? sure to travel, but more. I?m always doing something. Mahout training, an expansive meditation experience, maybe I learn to cook Thai. And, there?s trekking, Muay Thai courses? There?s so much to do here. Now I can do only half. Half lose my francs. It?s so hard to choose.?

Barry Anderson ? Australia
?Funny thing is Burma (a.k.a. Myanmar) lost business because of the Thai regs. I wanted to hop over there bouts for a week mid-November. Can?t now. That would use up one of my precious two visa runs early. Don?t wanna torch thirteen days I figure.?

Kathy Taylor ? Canada
?I sold my home to come to SE Asia for a couple years. The thinking was I would maintain a small apartment in Chiang Mai, take some classes, travel around a bit and have a place to nest and write in between. Now when I travel to other countries it will go lock, stock and barrel, along with my tourism dollars for many months.?

Alan McLawrie ? UK
?I?m currently taking classes to learn to speak Thai. I?ll miss the third level now. Of course, I?ll be off in Vietnam not able to practice what I just learned anyway. Also, I volunteer at a dog rescue and will miss the pups. I?m financially independent, yet too young to meet the 50 year old requirement for a Retirement Visa here. Officials actually said this new law will stop bad people and not hurt good people. Well, if financially successful, charitable volunteers who study their culture are bad guys, send me to the front of the line.?

Anita Kroll ? USA
?This change is a bit of a pickle for me. I have a three month course this spring. So, in December when my 90 is up, I have to leave Thailand for almost four months, not three. I?ll need the whole next lot of ninety days to cover my class time. The course starts in late April and I?m out in December. I wish there had been more notice before the government changed things, though in retrospect I did not have to pay in advance.?

As you see there are dozens of ways Thailand?s new policies will cause little inconveniences. But, how little are they? You see, I am Anita. I am Alan. I am Kathy, Barry, Kelly, Donald and even Claude DeVosjoli. All these issues occurred for just one peaceful gal who simply loves Thailand. What else do these issues have in common? That?s easy. They take money away (Whish!) from the Kingdom of Thailand and its citizens.

A funny thing happened on the way to my closet. This unforgettable journey from my shower confirmed an age old theory: a lot can happen in fifteen feet.

One night earlier I?d switched on the news to see civil unrest in Budapest, Hungary. My sister August was just there, I thought. Grand old buildings towered behind burning cars. As many do, I wondered: what is wrong with the world? Some of these countries?

At the time, there was no physical sensation caused by my foot being put in my mouth. I was oblivious to its presence. Fast forward 24 hours and enter my studio apartment in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

I pulled the towel from my wet hair as the newscaster spoke: ?Another country is in turmoil tonight.? Ho hum, here we go again. Now, where are my pajamas? As I stepped past the television, her words rang out: ?Tanks have entered Bangkok in a reported coup attempt.?

You know those moments in life when the space-time continuum warps around you? Everything freezes, yet your mind processes over three million random thoughts. That’s where I stood. Only then did I begin to notice my foot lodged deep in my mouth. In the .25 seconds it took to take one step backwards and wrench my head to the right, I had all the following thoughts.

Perched on the end of the bed, I watch three channels simultaneously for well over an hour. I resolved to take the coup in stride. But! Maybe I?d pack one bag. It would be a ?just in case? bag. The essentials a person would need if a quick exit should be close at hand. Of course, I?d sleep fully dressed in running shoes. Okay, I made that last part up. (My running shoes are in my gym locker.)

Then came slow motion. My eyes panned the room. Books, dishes, bedding, electronics, enough inventory for a small camera shop and clothes, lots of clothes?despite my vow, I had nested. How had this happened?

It was not the first time I had contemplated moving my small household. I had always planned on relocating to Southern Thailand in the spring. It wasn?t even the first time this week I realized extra stuff had to go. Just days before Thailand had suddenly tightened its tourism visa laws. Tens of thousands of other long-term travelers, such as myself, must be out of the country in ninety days. We can not reenter for three months. Now this.

The coup gave me a whole new perspective. I had been worried I needed to buy another suitcase to move my precious inane possessions. In my panic, I grabbed just important things. Money, my laptop, camera body & one lens, debit cards, IDs, a couple changes of clothes and three packs of dry noodles. My backpack was only ? full. I panned the room again.

Sleep prevailed. Perspective had returned. In the morning I had school and simply dumped my bag on the floor in a quest for missing underwear. After all, I?m in Chiang Mai, not Bangkok. But, my unpacked state was not to be.

At school, my teacher was visibly shaken. She?d seen soldiers on her way through town. They stood at the closed public schools, hospitals and local businesses. Tanks lined the Super Highway. They are in Chiang Mai.

Half the students had not shown up, others had no sleep. In my mind, I packed again. In my class, I absorbed nothing. None of us are any wiser for having been there. Strategies changed. I had time to organize. My ?just in case? bag was augmented.

On the way, home I stopped at the mall and purchased the most brilliantly blue suitcase ever seen from space. No doubt, right now, that female space tourist is looking toward Asia and reaching for sunglasses. Alas, it was half price.

Normally bustling, the mall ambiance was semi-dormant. Department store sales reps stood idle. And, I, their only customer, was buying a suitcase to leave. This was a likely sign of things to come for Thailands economy.

I walked away feeling as though I was carrying a scarlet letter? a big blue scarlet letter. It said, ?T? for traitor. It screamed ?C? for chicken. I?d have traded all my limited Thai vocabulary to know the phrase for ?just in case?. The glow from my suitcase could not be hidden. Shame set in. Stepping out into the rain, I resolved not to pack a single thing.

And, the beat goes on. Arriving home, I turned on the tele and listened. The Northern Borders with Laos and Myanmar have been sealed. Borders! Sealed? Laos! That was my imagined escape route. The rollercoaster continues. As I write this, it’s been less than twenty-four hours since the first reports of tanks in Bangkok. I write and I ponder. Will the coup affect the airline’s baggage limits? How much can I pack?

Krabi Attractions: What to Visit in Krabi, Thailand
Buses leave Phuket bus station for Krabi approximately every half hour. When you arrive you will get off the bus near Phuket town. The town doesn’t really have much in the way of interest except markets. Best to hop on a motorbike and head for Ao Nang beach. There is also an airport in Krabi with direct connections from Bangkok and Phuket. Or, go by ferry direct from Rassada Pier near Phuket Town – ferries leave Rassada at 8.30 am and 10.30 am.

Ao Nang Beach in Krabi is a buzzy little place – plenty budget guest houses and lots of restaurants. The beach road stretches in a U shape and takes about 15 minutes to walk down. If you stand facing the sea, the road that turns up to the left is where most of the budget guest houses are. The one that goes to the right is more resort material.

On the road to the left, apart from the fact that there is now a large McDonald’s, you’ll find cool eating houses and book shops amongst small market places selling all sorts of beach wear and sndals. Visit the Full Moon Bar for a welcoming atmosphere and a great selection of music. The owner, Tom. is a lovely Thai guy.

On the seafront, try out one of the many Italian restautants or, even better, Woodstock. This is a total gem. It’s a Mexican place run by a native Californian called Kim. The food is spectacular, prices reasonable and atmosphere excellent.

Grab a long tail boat from Ao Nang to Railay Beach. In West Railay, walk through to East railay and turn left to Ao Phra Nang cave down at the tip. Visit the cave with the princess at the end of the beach.

Ferry Boat to Phi Phi and nearby Islands
For a really enjoyable day out Island Hopper, one of the largest tour groups on Phuket, do a fantastic set of packages around the region. Phuket Guide tried the one to Phi Phi, Bamboo and Khai Islands and the Visitors were inpressed.

A mini van picked up visitors up at 7.45 am and set off for Koh Siray near Phuket town. There was coffee waiting for the visitors at the beach and, despite the fact that there were about 40 tuouists milling around, Island Hopper staff were well organized and spoke English well so the visitors all ended up in the correct group very quickly. The guide explained where the visitors would go and gave them all informative leaflets before leading them to speedboat. There were 11 passengers on board. The visitors sped out into the ocean and all started to relax as Ek, the lovely guide, served them some fresh fruit and told them stories of different sea creatures he had encountered on his travels.

Visitors stopped at Bamboo Island a protected resource and got off for some swimming and a walk around. Visitors were told not to remove anything from the island and to take care to respect the environment.

Next it was on to a beautiful cove for some excellent snorkelling and fishing feeding. Then off for a swim at Maya bay then a stop for lunch at a nice restaurant on Phi Phi Island. There was another snorkelling trip and a final stop on Khai island. There’s not much here except a few small stalls selling beer and snacks but it’s a good place to wind down after a day of activities.The companydrop visitors off at their hotel around 6 pm.

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Make your escape and grab a bit of peace
If you spend most of your time here in Patong you might get the impression that the beaches of Phuket are crowded. Not true. While Patong fairly buzzes with people and activity, there are many other beaches to which one can escape and discover blissful solitude. You just need wheels. As one moves away from Patong, the beaches get progressively quieter. The southern part of the island, with the possible exception of Kata, is peaceful. In the north, even more so. You’ll find miles of deserted beach at the top of the island, even in peak season. Crowded beach. Quiet beach. The choice is yours.

Cable water-skiing
This is a relatively new sport and requires a bit of nerve. Not like water-skiing, participants are coached to perform spectacular aquatic manoeuvres at a high rate of knots. It’s so much fun that many come back for more. Children absolutely love it. It opens at 9 in the morning and closes at 9pm. Follow the kathu Waterfall road, just before you come to the road that will go to Patong in the center of the island. Why not go during the afternoon and visit the waterfall first. Obviously quite dry until the rain starts around August, but otherwise a lovly place for a stroll in a forest environment.

Horse riding
If you’re itching to get back in the saddle then check out Phuket Riding Club, just past the Chalong traffic circle on the right, heading couth.Instructors available on weekend mornings.

Mini golf
Dino Park, between Karon and Kata, is a great venue for families. The mini golf course is complete with realistic-looking dinosaurs and a “live” volcano spewing steam. There’s also a bar and a restaurant serving some of the best hamburgers around.

Golfing
There are four international standard courses on Phuket. Five, counting Thai Muang, just a short trip off the island. All courses have their own special features and excellent standards of (female) caddying.Blue canyon, Laguna Golf Club, Phuket Country Club, Loch Palm.

Go-karting
Go pedal-to-the-metal on the eastern side of Patong hill at Kathu. Lots of fun and not as dangerous as some people imagine.

Traveling in traditional style
The longtail boat, or reua hang yao, is a ubiquitous sight in Thai seas. Originally based on the design of the Arabic dhow, the boats- as we see them these days- have been built here for the last fifty years, using skills handed down from father to son.
No plans, no drawing, yet the incredible seaworthiness of this vessel makes it indispensable for fishing and taxiing around these islands. The engine, generally big enough to power a large truck, is pivot-balanced to rotate almost 360 degres, affording a reverse manoeuve without having to use a gearbox.
It’s an art in itself to handle one, and most Thai fishermen are big strong chaps due to the exertion needed from the effort needed to keep the boat under control. Most boats can be hired to visit nearby islands and fares can be agreed on after bargaining with the owner. Considering the time and skills that went into building each og these fine craft, sailing in one should be a memorable experience for the visitor.

Elephant trekking
The wild elephant popilation of Phuket was wiped out last century but has been replaced in recent years by an influx of pachyderms brought here for the tourist trade. Since logging was banned in Thailand( officially, at least) about 10 years ago, hundreds of Thai elephants have been out of work and the tourist boom has been a blessing for this work-loving creature. Riding an elephant is an experience not to be missed. These lumbering monsters are incredibly agile for their size and can negotiate slippery slopes that even humans would falter and slip on- all this while carrying three people on their backs.
There are many elephant treks to choose from and most include a lunch package. Some trekking companies do deals where you get to canoe, ride buffaloes and see a monkey training show too.

Take a trip to Fantasea
For anyone a little bored with the nightlife and bars around the island, Phuket Fantasea is definitely the place to try next. This has got to be one of the biggest entertainment complexes in Asia.The drive up to the entrance will leave you in no doubt about what you are going to be offered at Fantasea. It’s all bright lights and big top type cabaret and there are so many staff you can’t possibly get lost.
The evening kicks off with a buffet dinner in the enormous Golden Kinaree Restaurant. Seating up to 4,000 people, this palatial pink and yellow eating house dishes up anything from sushi to fresh green salad. Dinner over, there is plenty of time to take a stroll through Festival Village. This is a purpose-built shopping area decked out with artificial lakes and cave entrances and plenty of glitter. Crafts are for sale from all over Thailand and those in the mood can play games like tombola or skittles. Heaven on earth for children.
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