GETTING AROUND ORIZABA: Well you have feet, don’t you?

Getting around the city of Orizaba couldn’t be easier. Taxis are readily available and very cheap, fares are only a few pesos from anywhere to anywhere in town. The cheapest way to get around of course, is to walk. The compact size of the city allows you to stroll casually between many locations in a matter of minutes, especially in and around downtown.

The city is divided into quadrants by MADERO, a street which runs North and South and COLON, a street which runs East and West. The streets to the West of Madero, paralleling Colon are named Ponientes. The ponientes to the north (the northwest quadrant) have even numbers; two, four, six, eight, etc.; while the ponientes to the south (the southwest quadrant) have odd numbers, three, five, seven, nine, etc. When the ponientes cross Madero they become Orientes. The orientes have odd numbers north of Colon and even numbers to the south of Colon. In the other direction (North and South) are the streets named Norte, that have odd numbers to the West of Madero (the northwest quadrant), and even numbers to the East of Madero (the northeast quadrant). The streets called Norte become Sur when they cross Colon, and have even numbers in the southwest quadrant, but odd numbers in the southeast quadrant.

The Parque de Castillo, marking the city’s hub, contains the Parish Church of San Miguel, while the Rio de Orizaba (Orizaba River) ambles serpent-like through the city’s western half. A ten-block square area encompasses more than 90% of Orizaba’s majesty, excepting volcano-related places and activities. If the city layout sounds complicated, relax, about five seconds with a city map and you’ll be all clear. A decent map will be found in the telephone directory at your hotel. It’s all you’ll need. Some hotels have simple ones that you can take with you.

SO HOW’S THE FOOD ? : Well let me tell you?

Good food is easy to come by in the city. There’s a generous variety of offerings as well. Local fare centers on huge sandwiches of beef, pork, chicken or turkey complete with assorted HOT peppers. Roast meat dishes and typical fast-food fare is likewise plentiful, as are the ever-present pizza and burger joints. Even in the majority of these, the platters are sizeable, filling and tasty. The central city area is brimming with choice places for almost any budget. Here are some to check out:

Name: Merendero Rosey
Address: Oriente 7 at the corner of Norte 2

A “torteria” or sandwich shop specializing in HUGE, freshly-made sandwiches of beef (carne), lamb (cordero), chicken (pollo), or turkey (pavo) priced from 5 pesos to 9 pesos. A wonderful bargain.

Name: La Gran Torta
Address: On Colon at the Parque del Castillo

Another great “belly-buster” sandwich spot which has more variety, including some piping hot meals as well. Their sandwich specialty is turkey and they will pile it on until you say “Ouch!”. Prices are so low that I fail to understand how they can possibly make any money – it MUST be the staggering volume of business they do. The place is knee-deep in people from opening until closing. That should tell you something. You’ve just got to try this one !

Name: La Pergola
Address: Oriente 6 and Sur 7 (on the corner)

A small, family-run restaurant with a full menu of local dishes including some pasta. Service is quick and the food though uninspired is inexpensive, tasty and filling. Entrees range in price from 25 to 60 pesos. The are such a bunch of other local eateries along this stretch of Oriente 6 that there’s absolutely no danger whatsoever of going hungry on this street.

Name: Mariscos Boca Del Ri?
Address: Poniente 6 and Norte 3

This local seafood restaurant is the best in town and legendary for its seafood cocktails, shrimp dishes, mariscos, squid, fish fillets and other seafood menu offerings. Prices are more than reasonable, at around 40 to 50 pesos. There are two locations, the principal one being near the Hotel Pluviosilla to the west on Poniente 7. Treat yourself to at least one lunch or dinner here while in the neighborhood.

For English language teaching opportunities see the companion articles, “Teaching English in Mexico: Orizaba Language Institutes” and “Teaching English in Mexico: Orizaba Jobs”. Additional aspects of living and working in Orizabab can be found in the series, “Traveling in Mexico: The City of Orizaba”, and “Traveling in Mexico: Hotels in Orizaba”.

THE CITY OF ORIZABA: What goes up (the volcano), must come down.

This city of about 100,000 Indians and mixed Spanish blood inhabitants is named for Mt. Orizaba (Citlaltepetl), Mexico?s highest peak and the third highest peak in North America at an elevation of about 18,406 ft. (5,610 meters). Only Mt. McKinley in Alaska and Mt. Logan in Canada are higher. Also referred to as Pico de Orizaba, it can have snow at its upper levels year-round but the climbing season is in Winter, which is just the opposite of the other North American climbs. That makes Orizaba a very popular destination from November through February. The climbers (and tourists) come principally from all over North America with some from Europe and beyond. They almost all speak English, so the English language teaching trade is booming. EFL and ELT professionals, local schools and businesses want and need your services!

There are several interesting websites with information on the volcano, which apparently last erupted in 1687 with prior eruptions in 1613 and 1537. The point is that unlike Mt. Popocatepetl, you won?t have to worry about flying hot rocks, molten lava or steaming craters of asphyxiating volcanic gas and suffocating ash. As with other mountains and natural features in the regions of the Aztecs, there is a legend attached to Citlaltepetl, a name that means ?Star Mountain? in Nahuatl ? the language of the Aztecs. Legend says that the feathered serpent, Quetzalcoatl, was first consumed by sacred flames emerging from the heart of Pico de Orizaba, then took on human form and finally sailed from the Veracruz coast across the sea, vowing one day to return to his beloved people.

GETTING TO AND AWAY FROM ORIZABA:

Orizaba is conveniently located on the main turnpike route between Mexico City in the mountains and the city of Veracruz on the Gulf Coast. There are frequent buses in both directions connecting to the smaller towns and pueblos, so getting there is a snap. Xalapa, the capitol city of the state of Veracruz, and the city of Puebla, which overlooks Mexico?s current volcano-in-action, can be easily reached as well. Travel by first-class ADO bus services is as follows between Orizaba and M?xico City – 4 hours, Veracruz – 2 hours 15 mins., Xalapa – 4 hours, Puebla – 2 hours 30 mins.

There is train service (El Jarocho) on the Veracruz ? M?xico City line, the fare is about 160 pesos one way. Check for an updated schedule in Mexico City or Veracruz in the train ride interests you. Presently, there is one train each way per day. In Orizaba, the train station is on the corner of Poniente 19 and Sur 10.

Where to Stay in Orizaba
There are a considerable number of budget-priced or economy hotels located throughout the city but when looking around at budget or even mid-range hotels in Orizaba, you’ll note that many come stocked with “ladies of the evening” who are standing at or just inside of the hotel front door. Make no mistake, many of these ladies come with “the gift that keeps on giving? ” AIDS. Most well-run hotel establishments will not allow them and these hotels are usually marked as “family” hotels. You will have far fewer problems (or temptations) staying at a “family” hotel even if it’s located across from or next door to a “stocked” hotel. Keep your eyes open and BE CAREFUL at all times! Some recommendable places include these:

Name: Hotel Arenas
Address: Norte 2 No. 169
Phone: 725-2361

A small, family-run hotel located directly in back of the yellow-walled Parrish Church of San Miguel. There is an attractive, plant-filled courtyard fronting the economically priced rooms. Most have a TV and fan with private bath and are clean but unpretentious. The street out front is usually pretty crowded as it’s the market district, so there’s plenty of activity until about 9 pm when things go quiet. Singles / doubles are 100 pesos and 120 pesos respectively. Expect to pay slightly more during peak seasons.

Name: Hotel San Crist’bal
Address: Norte 4 No. 243 (between Orientes 5 and 7)
Phone: 725-1140

Also in the market district three blocks from the Hotel Arenas, this small hotel is a bit more secure and is newly renovated, but still plain. Singles / Doubles with TV, fan, and private bath (hot water available most of the day) are priced at 70 pesos and 110 pesos. Similar in facilities to the Hotel Arenas but cleaner and brighter although more Spartan. A good value “family” hotel. You’ll also pay a bit more here during “peak” seasons.

Name: Hotel Trueba
Address: Oriente 6 and Sur 11
Phone: 724-2930

This fairly pricey hotel located near the ADO bus terminal has single and double rooms with AC, TV and private bath with 24 hour hot water priced at 280 to 320 pesos for a single / double. Accommodations are adequate, but for the price Hotel L’Orbe would be a better value. However, tours up Mt. Orizaba to mid-range altitudes can be arranged by Turismo Aventura from the lobby of this hotel, departing on Saturday and Sunday mornings. A few of the guides speak some English and the tours are interesting and unique but should be arranged well in advance. Be sure to bring warm clothes if you’re planning even a low-altitude trek up the mountain as it can get pretty chilly even in the dead of Summer. A Pico de Orizaba tour, however, is most definitely recommended and will cost in the neighborhood of $25 to $30 U.S. dollars per person ” a bit less in the “off” seasons.

Name: Hotel L’Orbe
Address: Poniente 5 No. 3
Phone: 725-5033

In the heart of downtown, upscale and pricey, this hotel has excellent local information, as you might expect. Staff is friendly and informative even to non-guests. Rooms are nice, fully air conditioned, with cable, color TV, phones and go for around 320 pesos for a double. The hotel has recently been completely remodeled and re-furnished as well.

Name: Hotel Mirador
Address: Madero Sur No. 469
Phone: 725-2381

The Hotel Mirador is mid-range in price and services with cable TV, private bath, 24 hour hot water, and fans. It fills up fairly quickly during peak seasons, but isn’t really anything super special. Accommodations are adequate though, and the location isn’t bad as it’s in the city center near a variety of restaurants, cafes, theaters and other facilities. Rates are 170 to 190 pesos for a single / double room.

Name: Hotel Pluviosilla
Address: Poniente 7 No. 163
Phone: 725-5300

An upscale hotel located near one end of the city with nice, clean rooms for a bit higher price. It fills up quickly in the peak tourists seasons as do other tourist favorites in town. Rooms are priciest then with typical rates at 330 to 380 pesos for singles / doubles with AC, cable TV, private bath, and 24 hour hot water. There is a good on-site restaurant.

Name: Hotel Mar’a Isabel
Address: Sur 21-A No. 36 Col. Hidalgo
Phone: 724-1430

Located right in the city center and not a bad value is the Maria Isabel. Clean, upscale and well-located there is a good restaurant and fairly nice facilities. Staff is knowledgeable and friendly, but no English is spoken. Tours can be arranged and some guides speak a little English. Rooms are good with cable TV, AC, hot water and phone for around 230 pesos for a double.

For English language teaching leads see the companion articles, “Teaching English in Mexico: Orizaba Language Institutes” and “Teaching English in Mexico: Orizaba Jobs. Additional aspects of living and working in Orizabab can be found in the series, “Traveling in Mexico: The City of Orizaba”, “Traveling in Mexico: Hotels in Orizaba”, “Traveling in Mexico: Picture Yourself Living in Orizaba” and “Traveling in Mexico: The Food in Orizaba”.

If you’re dreaming of a bungalow on the beach and living with the sounds of waves lapping crystal sands as music to your ears lulling you like a lullaby – return to earth – those places cost far more than you’ll probably ever be able to afford as a working English language teacher here. If you’ll consider living as the locals do, then you’ll be off the beach, but only a few minutes bus ride away from the powdery, sugar-like sands of one of the world’s most pristine stretches of diatomaceous beach. Still interested ?

Most of Cancun’s more affordable hotels are near the main bus terminal on the Avenida Uxmal or the Avenida Tulum. It’s an easy area to get to or away from starting from any point in the Cancun area. Buses to the beach and resorts run along the Avenida Tulum. It’s also a relatively safe area at night with plenty of places to eat, shop, and work located nearby. Note: Prices in Cancun are higher than in most other Mexican cities for the same or similar services and from there rise dramatically during the Winter months.

Hotel El Alux
Avenida Uxmal No. 21
884 – 0662, 884 – 0556

This small hotel has reasonably-priced air-conditioned (you’ll need it) rooms with TV, phone and hot water for 220 pesos, single or 240 pesos for a double. Staff is friendly and helpful. A travel agent and car rental agency are on the ground floor with tour information and budget-priced vehicles available. You can walk here from the bus station, just go to the corner of Avenida Uxmal, cross the street and go left for one block. It’s the multi-story pink building.

Hotel Cotty
Avenida Uxmal No. 44
884 – 1319, 884 – 0550

For about the same prices as the Hotel Alux, you can get lodging in this motel-style inn across and down the street a bit. It’s not as nice, but the services are adequate and rooms are clean. There are only two floors, so an elevator isn’t necessary and rooms open onto a central courtyard that doubles as a parking area. Make sure to get an air-conditioned room, the Yucatan sizzles in Summer. A restaurant is on the premises with inexpensive fare on the menu. It’s also open late.

Hotel Uxmal
Avenida Uxmal No. 111
884 – 2266, 884 – 2355

Two blocks further along the Avenida Uxmal, near Berlitz, this inexpensive, family-run hotel is popular with the locals as a “love motel”, since the Avenida Yaxchilan is closeby. No “working girls” or “ladies of the evening” though. So, it’s OK as an alternate if you’re having trouble finding a place soon after arrival. Check the room first before paying as quality can vary widely. Rooms with A/C are more, but worth it if available. Prices are around 160 pesos to 180 pesos. Some rooms are even less, but without A/C, though they do have a fan.

When the publishers of the Lonely Planet travel guides issued their annual list of the best travel destinations for this year there were a few surprises. Gone were some of the over-priced, over-crowded tourist traps of previous years. There are some new entries to peak the curiosity and provide ever-expanding new vistas and experiences for the crowd-weary world traveler. Here?s a partial list in reverse order.

9. Germany An old favorite that still can pull its weight with the tourism crowd and one of only two European entries that made the list, Germany has much to offer. More than just Oktoberfest, beer and sausages, travelers can delight in specialties from each of the country?s regions.

8. Colombia A stunning surprise entry on the list for the first time, Colombia may be know for its drug-trafficking and civil war violence, but it?s also the world?s leading producer of fine emeralds. It?s the world?s second leading producer of coffee after Brazil, but the quality of the rich, mild coffee produced here is second to none. One of South America?s most beautiful countries, scenic delights range from still-active volcanoes like the smoldering Galeras to the bubbling mud spews of Totumo near Colombia?s Atlantic coast.

7. India Mythical, mysterious, enchanting and a hundred more adjectives besides, how could this wondrous place not be on anyone?s wish list of travel destinations? A large percentage, up to 75%, of the population living in large cities speaks at least passable English. I?m surprised it?s only number eight. But it is on the list and deservedly so. Food, festivals, culture and history pour into the streets at every turn

6. Canada June, July and August are peak tourism months for the USA?s giant Northern neighbor. English is the language of all Canada?s provinces with French being the language of choice in the province of Quebec. There are marvelous winter festivals in Quebec City and francophone Montreal to delight the senses for willing to brave the frigid minus forty and below temperatures. There?s plenty to keep you warm though.

5. Antarctica Not only know as ?that frozen continent at the bottom of the world?, Antarctica is now featured in a number of commercials and travel ads. But with temperatures ranging from degrees F to degrees F, ?What?s the attraction?? you might ask. More than you might imagine. There?s not exactly a shortage of wildlife despite daytime temps in the minus teens on a ?warm? day. Marine life is also abundant as are formations of ice and snow on the glaciers that the continent feeds. Wanna play with the penguins, anyone? The experience of being there itself is a unique, one-of-a-kind adventure that draws many. Stormy Cape Horn and the beauty of wind swept Patagonia are also near. Scientific expeditions from a number of countries are nearly always in progress. At times the place is not unlike Grand Central Station. Antarctica is certainly not for everyone, but it does have its charms.

4. Mexico Long a favorite destination of North Americans from the USA and Canada, what?s not to like about this country famous for hot chili peppers and even hotter senoritas? From the beach to bullfights, you can find nearly any form of diversion you like. Skiing in Mexico? You betcha. Mt. Orizaba, North America?s second highest peak is south of the border.

3. Nicaragua With a stable economy and rock-bottom real estate bargains, this country has caught the eye of investors and ex-pats looking for scenic locales and tranquility. Once torn by civil strife, conditions have reversed and improved to the point it?s now a tourism destination for in the know and savvy on Central American affairs.

2. China With one billion, three hundred million inhabitants, the world?s most populous country has awakened from its ?sleeping giant? image to thrust its presence onto the world scene with a vengeance. Authentic Chinese food, not that ?cloned? stuff you get at the chain franchises, awaits you in a variety and abundance that must be experienced to be believed. The Chinese eat and drink things that will absolutely amaze and astound you ? and they make it look good too. From the world renowned Great Wall, the only man-made structure visible from outer space, to vast stretches of seemingly as yet unexplored country, even the Chinese are still turning up discoveries and treasures in their own midst.

1. Argentina It takes two to Tango as they say. If you want to try your hand at Argentina?s national pastime, here?s definitely the place. For meat lovers this is paradise as the beef here is among the best in the world and certainly the best in South America. The beef here is not only great, but there?s plenty of it and it?s cheap by U.S. and European standards. Gauchos, as Argentine cowboys are called, still abound on the grassy pampas and plains that comprise most of the country. There are tours, ?tenderfoot? home stays at ranches and plenty of open spaces for a roundup of experiences that?ll leave you wanting more. Be sure to wash down all that succulent tender roast beef with locally produced wines that are surprisingly good at even more surprisingly affordable prices.

So there you have it, the top ten travel destinations for 2006. Where would you like to go this year? Forget the ?old favorites? temporarily. Step out; try something new and different for a change. Fish for Piranha in the Amazon region of Colombia, or Bull sharks off its Pacific coast. Explore China?s historical, cultural and epicurean delights. Oomph, Pah, Pah your way through Germany?s scores of different sausages and hundreds of varieties of malted brews. Carve an original ice sculpture in Quebec City, laughing at the record cold temperatures all the way. Fish or canoe one of Canada?s unspoiled lakes with water so pure you can drink it. Whichever direction the wind blows you, you?re bound to enjoy experiences and sights to last a lifetime.

DID YOU KNOW THAT?

According to the Mayan Calendar there is a 2,000 year old prophecy that predicts all humanity will perish on December 21st in the year 2012.

So, If you’re planning to visit, vacation, live or Teach English in Mexico, you’d better get hopping! “Cause time’s a wastin”  there’s only six years and three months to go for humankind!

STEP BACK IN TIME AND WATCH AS ?

The first rays of the sun reach across the shimmering cobalt seas of the Caribbean as a strikingly handsome young prisoner of war, arrayed in lavish plumes, adorned with gold ornaments and fine linen climbs purposefully up temple steps hewn from blocks of coral. Attendants, perhaps three on each side, ascend as well. They step up sideways, first left a few steps, then right a few more, imitating the “s-shaped” movement of a snake. Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent god must not be offended. A warm wind tumbles sand along the palm-lined beach below. Huge flames of a ceremonial fire blaze from a watchtower that all may know the gods are being appeased. The signal will be visible even far out to sea by the Spanish ships of Juan de Grijalva in years to come.

The sun is brighter now, its rays painting the outside walls of the temple in brilliant color. The temple, a resting place for the gods, is deeply carved and painted with designs and figures in the brightest shades of red and blue contrasting the bleached white coral. Shining through a precision-cut square hole in the temple wall, the sun’s golden beams bathe the temple’s main room in breath-taking brilliance before exiting the building’s front where the chief priest, a black stripe painted across his face and a polished gold mirror on his chest, basks in the ever-brightening golden glow.

Throngs chant below, in the courtyard in front of the temple. Some dance with rattles made of “ayoyote” tied around their wrists, lower legs and ankles and sing in accompaniment to ritual drums and crude metal bells while loincloth-clad musicians beat tones on beautifully carved bamboo “Tponaztlas”. The young captive warrior, his body painted blue, stumbles ever so slightly, woozy from the intoxicating balche poured into him lovingly by four beautiful maidens representing the four Chacs, or rain gods, each associated with a cardinal direction and with its own special color. For a year now the youth has consorted with them and lived a life of utmost luxury, the finest of all the culture available to him. It is now the fifth ritual month of Toxcatl. The priest, arrayed to represent a god, possibly Tezcatlipoca, a wizard and a master of black magic, now spreads his arms wide as the warrior-captive nears the top of the altar steps.

The crowd is in a frenzy now, chanting, yelling, writhing in unison like a massive wave of the sea below. In front of the stone carved altar, smoke rises from copal incense burning in pottery vessels. Suddenly, the waiting attendants seize the youth, who, beginning to come to his senses and realizing with stark foreboding what is about to happen, vainly struggles against his burly captors. Prostrating him face up on the altar with his head pointed Northward, they spread-eagle and hold his arms and legs immobile. Running rivulets of sweat now streak the blue-painted torso. The priest raises his arms in salutation to the gods and crowd before ceremonially cutting open the sacrifice’s chest with a gold-hilted sacrificial flint knife and tears out his heart as an offering. The balche does its work in deadening the pain, but it is not enough.

The crowd cannot hear the victim’s screams above their own. The priest, altar and attendants are splashed with blood as the still-beating heart is tossed down the temple steps towards the ritual-maddened crowd. Pandemonium ensues. The gods smile. They are pleased.

Such may well have been the scene quite often in Tulum, situated only about two hours south of Cancun on the coastal road headed towards Belize. The ruins here are a definite must-see during your time here. It’s heavily commercialized now and a bit of a hassle to do the trip. You’ll need a guide ($150 pesos) and you can no longer climb the ruins like I used to. Until a few years ago, you could still see the bloodstains on parts of the altar and the original paintings on the coral carved walls. Despite costs and inconveniences, it’s still an interesting site to visit. If you’re really an early bird, sea-side caba’as thatched with palm are available a little further south near the biosphere reserve at Chac-Mool de Sian Ka’an.